Tuesday 24 December 2013

The City Logic: Finding Your Way Around

Moscow is ranked 15th in the world’s top 20 largest cities. With its population officially exceeding 11.5 million people (2010 Census, and unofficially judging by the food consumption and the traffic related figures, the real figure totals around 20 million), its metropolitan area reaching 870 km2, and history extending over nine centuries, Moscow may be a real challenge for tourists who want to see a bit more than the usual attractions. And it’s not that Red Square and the Kremlin are not interesting to visit, it’s just that to feel the city you have to walk around. And to know where to go in Moscow you have to understand the city layout.
 
 
Well, it’s not really complicated. As in many other old cities, take Paris or Athens or Rome for instance, the historical centre of Moscow lies in the centre. Simple, right? J
 
It’s important to understand the main city-forming principle: Moscow started as a small patch of land on the Brorvitsky Hill, and it grew in size throughout its whole history in all directions. And since nomad raids were a constant danger in the Middle Ages, there was also a constant need for fortification works around the city. Each new district meant construction of a new protection wall. At the same time, there were roads that led out of the city centre to the major cities of the time, again in all directions. They were named after these cities, and the places where the roads met the walls were fortified by gates.
 
 
 
As time went by, some inner walls were more of an obstacle for transport, and they were pulled down and replaced by boulevards, and squares replaced the gates. This is how the city concentric and radial layout took its shape and was supported, already in the modern history, by construction of the largest highways Third Ring Road and Moscow Ring Road (MKAD).

Going a little more in detail and all the more in pictures, let’s look into the most ancient city district, the Kremlin. It lies on the Brorvitsky Hill at the confluence of the Moskva and the Neglinnaya River (the latter runs currently beneath the ground). Although most history books give 1147 as the year Moscow was first mentioned in the ancient history records, it is evident that Moscow is much older. Archaeological digs revealed that people lived here as early as in the Bronze Age (II century BC). The place was convenient to settle in: water ways provided food and transport, the hill rising above the surrounding valleys gave a nice overview and made it difficult for the enemy to come unnoticed.
 
 
The fortification wall Moscovites built around the Kremlin was first of wood, subsequently of white stone and then of bricks (more or less the way we know the Kremlin now).
 
       
 
 
  
Let’s look at the engraved map of the 1630th and compare it to the current map of Moscow. Here the Kremlin territory is marked in red.

   

The thick mighty walls gave shelter and confidence and attracted more and more new settlers. In XIV Moscow (= Kremlin) could not house all those willing to come, and a new district appeared. It’s called Kitay-gorod in Russian (see in yellow on the maps), and it was occupied first by nobility and then by merchants as shopping arcades and the city exchange opened in the area.
 
 
 
Moscow Exchange, currently Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry
 
 
Bely Gorod used to be a district where nobility in the Tsar’s service lived. If translated literally, Bely Gorod is White Town, and the name presumably reflects the fact that the noble residents were exempt of the land tax and occupied “white” land in terms of the XVI century Russia. The district was also surrounded by a brick wall painted white. According to the 1775 city development plan, only stone houses could be built in Kitay-Gorod and Bely Gorod. This largely contributed to the safety of the many houses erected then till our time. 
 
 
 

Zemlyanoy Gorod, literally translated as Earthworks Town, was regarded as suburbs till the end of XVI. Initially it was a scarcely populated rural area of monasteries and villages, later an area of where the town craftsmen settled. It was separated from Bely Gorod by a stone wall with gates (exactly as was the case with Kitay-gorod), and from the rest of the world by an earth wall. However, very soon this area was added to Moscow territories and built up with stone houses, the wall was demolished and replaced by a the Garden Ring. Later on, the district witnessed a real building boom after 1860 as entrepreneur activity thrived, and 4- or 5-storeyd tenement buildings and houses of well-to-do businessmen sprouted like mushrooms after the summer rains.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Now, as we can see, these city parts are the oldest, and despite all the changes that Moscow has undergone so far, there is still a lot of the very old times to discover. Explore!

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